India holds a number or dyeing and printing techniques to its credit. A many of them have been accepted and loved world over. And one of such ancient, attractive and loved fabric dyeing technique is Bandhani. This age old technique has found admirers all over the globe. Sarees, western outfits, ethnic wear and a lot other attires have adapted this form of dyeing. When it’s so known and preferred than we sure need to know a little about it.
Let’s take a sneak peek into this dyeing form, its types and what makes it so special.
Bandhani is derived from the word Bandhan, which means to tie. Therefore, the technique used in bandhani is of tying the fabric and then dyeing it. This technique is majorly practised in the Rajasthan and the Gujurat. This dyeing technique is mostly done in cotton and silk fabrics. The oodhanis, turbans, woman’s salwaar suits and even sarees are designed with this technique. The main colours used in Bandhani are yellow, green, red, pink, and black.
This technique was incepted by the Muslim Khatri Community of Kutch. Since then, it has been passed on from generation to generation. Bandhani has a variety known as Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali etc. Bandhani. Sikar, Udaipur and Ajemer in Rajasthan are a few places where clothes are produced using the Bandhani technique. Initially the dyeing colours were produced from roots, flowers, leaves and berries, making it a natural dyeing technique.
The area that is dyed is marked with colours. A thin sheet of plastic is placed with pin holes over it. The design is imprinted onto the fabric with the help of the holes and colours.
Thread is then pulled in the area of the fabric which has the plastic with holes and is tied tightly to form a knot.
Later, the fabric is washed to remove the imprint. The cloth is further dipped in napthol and later dyed in any colour. It is then again rinsed and dried and tied and immersed in dark colours.
When the last dyeing is completed the fabric is washed and starched. Now is when the knots are released which results in deep coloured cloth with dots forming a pattern.
Motifs such as flowers, creepers, bells, paisleys etc are made. Some of the common motifs are:
Dungar Shahi – mountain
Ekdali - a dot
Boond - a small dot with a dark centre
Tikunthi - circles and squares appear in a group of three
Kodi – tear or drop shaped
Laddu Jalebi (after the name of Indian Sweets) - the swirling
Chaubasi’ - in groups of four
Bandhani has always been a favourite technique of many Indian designers and hence it has also made its mark in western designs as well.
So, if you still haven’t added a Bandhani to your wardrobe, here’s a Bandhani collection that you can choose from.